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Which Composting Method is Right for You?
Composting systems range from simple, unenclosed piles that produce compost slowly, to large, three-bin units that produce compost in a matter of weeks. Which works best for you will depend on the size of your yard, how much yard debris you produce and the amount of time you want to spend composting.
Direct Land Application
This is the simplest way to recycle organic materials at home. These methods of composting use many types of organic wastes in their original form as mulches, or bury them into the soil.
Grasscycling
 Grasscycling is a simple and natural approach to lawn care. Leave your clippings on the lawn after mowing and they will decompose quickly, releasing valuable nutrients back into the soil. Grasscycling saves time spent bagging and can reduce annual fertilizer needs.
- Remove excess thatch (over 1/2 inch), then leave clippings on the lawn.
- Keep your mower blade sharp.
- Mow frequently when the grass is dry and at the recommended cutting level for your type of turf.
- Never cut more than 1/3 of the grass length.
- Avoid over-fertilizing or over-watering your lawn.
Mulching
Mulching enriches the soil, supresses weeds, conserves moisture, prevents soil erosion, and protects plants from cold.
- Use grass clippings, leaves, straw, manure, sawdust, bark and wood chips as mulch around trees, shrubs, and other perennial plantings.
- In annual flower and vegetable gardens, use only non-woody mulches (i.e., grass clippings and leaves) that break down easily.
Soil Incorporation
Soil incorporation means simply burying organic materials right into the soil. Because of the absence of air, some nutrients will be lost.
- Grass clippings, leaves and soft garden waste can be tilled directly into garden beds.
- To bury vegetable and fruit scraps, dig a hole, put scraps in, chop and mix with the soil, then cover with at least 8 inches of soil.
- Bury vegetables and fruit scraps around the drip lines of trees, shrubs or in garden trenches. These burial spaces become usable garden space for the following season.
Vermiculture Systems
 Using populations of composting red worms to make a high-quality compost from vegetable and fruit scraps is easy, but it is more expensive and complex than direct soil incorporation.
Redworms, unlike garden earthworms or night crawlers, thrive on organic wastes.
- Find or build a shallow box (about 16 to 18 inches deep) with drainage holes and a heavy, tight-fitting lid.
- Fill your worm bin with moist "bedding": brown leaves, shredded newspaper or cardboard, straw, peat moss, or a mixture of these.
- Bury vegetable and fruit scraps into the bedding, rotating locations throughout the bin.
- Every 6 to 8 months push the old bedding and decomposing scraps to one side, and start burying food wastes in the fresh bedding.
- Over the next 1-2 months, the worms will migrate to the food in the new bedding, then the old compost can be harvested.
- "Wranglin' Willie Worm Ranch" sells worm castings, worm tea, and a complete starter kit for vermicomposting, including the worms. You can reach them at: (541) 535-4134.
Compost Holding Systems
These are the least labor and time-consuming ways to compost. While bins are not technically needed for composting, they keep piles neat, organized and out of reach from pests and children.
Open-air composting uses holding bins to compost yard debris. Bins can be made of wire mesh, old fencing, wooden pallets, or wood and wire. Many types of manufactured holding bins are available for purchase.
- Place bin in a convenient location. Sun or shade levels aren't critical.
- Simply drop yard debris into the bin and water as necessary to maintain proper moisture.
- Once or twice a year, harvest the finished compost from the bottom or inside of the pile.
- Chopping or shredding the materials (especially woody debris), balancing high-carbon and high-nitrogen materials, and maintaining proper moisture and aeration will help speed the process.
Compost Turning Systems
These are designed to make hot, fast compost piles. Hot piles require some effort, but the compost is typically of a higher quality, because the high temperatures kill weed seeds and many plant diseases.
Hot composting with multiple bins is best for gardeners who have large volumes of yard debris and the desire and time to make high-quality compost. A series of 2 or 3 bins can be made of wood, wire, or masonry blocks.
- Mix alternating layers, 4-6" per layer, of brown (high carbon) and green (high nitrogen) materials.
- Dampen materials until they feel like a wrung out sponge.
- Turn and mix the materials into the next bin just after the pile temperature peaks and decrease substantially (approximately 4 to 7 days).
- If the materials feel dry, add more water; if they didn't get hot the first time, add more high-nitrogen material (or nitrogen fertilizer).
- Turn again after the temperature peaks (4 to 7 days).
- After the compost cools down for a few weeks, it should be ready to use.
Barrel Composters
Barrel composters, or tumblers, provide a convenient means to turn compost for rapid, pest free decomposition.
- Add moist, chopped or shredded materials until the barrel is 3/4 full.
- Rotate barrel vigorously every two or three days.
- Finished compost will be ready in a matter of weeks.
Holding vs. Turning
Here are a few pro's and con's for determining which type of bin system is right for your needs:
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Holding Systems
- Less heat
- Slow
- No fuss
- Inconsistent product
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Turning Systems
- Hot
- Fast
- Labor intensive
- Kills pathogens and weed seeds
- Handles larger volumes
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Say NO to Garbage Disposals
Kitchen scraps contain phosphates and nitrates which, after sent down kitchen disposals, must be removed to meet water quality standards. So don't grind your greens down. Compost your food waste and help keep our water clean.
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